This is pretty perfectly geared for fast and light alpine use. The fabric is Arc’teryx’s own, Fortius 2.0, very stretchy and pretty allergic to water too. The sizing is spot on in my medium with room for a baselayer and a thin mid underneath without compromising climbing mobility. The inner is zoned: thin fleece on the shoulders and a microgrid on the front panels, and this walks the tightrope between protection from the elements and being breathable enough to have dispensed with a 2 way central zip and pit ventilation. Features wise, the laminated hood moves nicely with the head and cinches at the back, there are napoleon pockets with external stormflaps, the hardwarmers are harness friendly and a perfect size, and the length is short but not painfully so. My only real issue with this is the elasticated sleeves, which mean you can’t hitch the sleeves up to the elbow to spill heat. Otherwise, it feels like a softshell should – a second skin. For active climbing and skiing in high mountains and with more stable weather this would be perfect. In a temperamental Scottish winter with some belaying I might want a shade more volume, but we’re down to nuances here – it’s expensive, but you get what you pay for with the Gamma.
Gear review by David Lintern @Selfpwrd